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October 2005
Renée’s voice, warm and folksy, over the phone: “You’ll be
so close. Come see it for yourself, if you haven’t been
since the storm…”
I exhaled, turned to her daughter standing next to me in the
student center, and I smiled.
A few weeks later, far from campus amid the fall quarter, I
drove to New Orleans by rental car. Hardly any traffic, in either
direction, during the hour-plus drive.
As I passed the airport at the city’s outskirts and went
towards the city’s center, the highway was empty. Eerie.
When I took the exit ramp towards the Garden District, the
atmosphere shifted. I saw people. I had light car traffic around
me. A constant buzz of industrial noise and demolition ran in
the background. At a main intersection, I saw members of the
National Guard occupying the scene. One stood in the street,
directing traffic.
Two months since Hurricane Katrina…
I crept along driving, my attention drawn to a man walking
from a house to the curb. He carried a dirty, mold-covered, odd-
shaped mass to the curb, and he placed it on a pile of broken
furniture and rusted appliances.
I saw the exhaustion on the man’s face. I caught a foul,
musty smell. Was this his home? I imagined print photos and
other personal treasures, ruined by soak in dirty water, mixed
with mounds of rubbish.
At my destination: The door opened, and I recognized her
warm and folksy voice. “Quintus, excited to meet you! How’s
my daughter up at Dartmouth?”
Renée leaned down and hugged me. She asked if I needed
anything following my drive, then quickly offered to show me
around the area. She had a plan for us.
We left the condo. I got into the passenger seat of her car,
and she drove.
First, Renée took me to a site widely seen in the news: a car
lodged in a tree.
She explained how Hurricane Katrina had missed the city,
but it caused flood surges in Lake Pontchartrain to the north.
Much of New Orleans is below sea level, so the city flooded
throughout when the levee system burst in several locations.
So here, at one of the breaches, the violent surge of water
had lifted the car off the ground, and it got wedged in the crown
of the tree.
Then Renée drove us nearby to her family’s home. Her
husband, Stuart, led the walk-through. The house had been
gutted, stripped down to the studs. Although not damaged
significantly by flooding, it sat for weeks surrounded and
immersed by shallow water. With the summer heat and humid-
ity, mold grew unchecked, ruining much of the house interiors
and contents.
Leaving their neighborhood, Renée drove us along a long
boulevard through a wide, industrial-area patch. Awestruck, I
gaped at piles of garbage stacked a few stories tall, the lengths
of football fields.
She drove onto a highway, heading east. She explained how
neighborhoods had flooded extensively below. I looked out the
window at the fast-moving scene, picturing the enormity of
loss. I imagined flooded homes, wrecked businesses, and
broken infrastructure, as far as I could see.
Renée took an exit to an expressway. I noticed an empty
theme park with a huge rollercoaster in the distance.
We came to a checkpoint. Renée showed her press pass, and
the guard passed us through. After crossing St. Bernard Parish,
we entered the Lower Ninth Ward.
Along the industrial canal, a levee breach hundreds of feet
long had spilled wide, heavy tides that swept down houses on
several streets. Blocks away from the canal breech, there were
vacant buildings, some barely standing. Water stains reached
high on the outer walls. I noted the markings the rescue teams
had made on each house they visited. Renee explained where
the markings indicated dead bodies, found inside.
We ended the tour of destruction where we had started in
the Garden District.
I began the long drive back to the state capital, heading to my
flight back home.
Honestly, I was relieved to escape the enormous destruction
I had witnessed. It didn’t seem possible for me to make a
difference.
The road was deserted on the way back, as it was earlier in
the day. Now, the lowering afternoon sun casts long shadows
across the land and hills around me.
Then suddenly, new thoughts. What if I joined others to
restore just one house on a street? And the house next door and the
next. Until the whole street was done, then the next street and repeat,
until the neighborhood is done!
I thumped the steering wheel, triumphant.
I said aloud in the car: “What if I count the houses?”